[REVIEW] Jové Four Seasons Palm Beach (FL) Restaurant Review

Posted in Reviews, Restaurants on June 15, 2014 at 11:34 AM
[REVIEW] Jové Four Seasons Palm Beach (FL) Restaurant Review
2800 South Ocean Blvd
Palm Beach, Florida
33480
(561) 533-3750
Food and Drink:
Service:
Ambience:
Value:
Cuisine:
Italian
Cost:
Open:
Dinner
Make a reservation
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Opening Remarks:

 

-Jové Kitchen & Bar is the recent revamp restaurant in the prestigious Four Seasons hotel along the water on South Ocean Blvd.

-The name was taken from the Roman mythological god of the sky, rounding out the hotel’s other two restaurant’s name references – Graze (land) and the Atlantic (sea).

 

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Ambiance:

 

-The restaurant is located on the main floor of the hotel, marked by a few grand stairs leading the way to a beautiful hostess waiting to greet you.

-The main dining room is one large room of loungy seating and spacious dining tables. At one end of the room, back-lit cocktail bar, packed with high quality liquor commands attention, while looking the other way, you’re drawn in by the stunning copper ball table centerpieces.

-Outside is a spacious outdoor dining environment that has been enclosed by element blocking plastic walls, and heated by gas fire lamps.  The seating outside is far more casual- there is a lounge area in the corner full of plush outdoor sofas and low tables, while the rest of the space is occupied by glass tables and cushioned white metal seats. For once, dining in Palm Beach style feels comfortable rather than pompous.

 

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-Speaking of comfortable, even on a slightly more tepid January night, the heat lamps throw enough warmth that I’m quite comfortable in my sleeveless dress. Bonus points for that! Noise level is also at a comfortable buzz – a trend I’ve found across the Palm Beach dining scene.

-The demographic on a Saturday night after the holidays feels most definitely like the hotel crowd. There are a number of older couples, a few groups of young adults, and a couple young families entertaining their children via. Dora on a propped up iPad. 

 

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Service:

 

-While we were seated quite readily, we ended up waiting around for a good 7 minutes before anyone greeted us or brought us menus. I was a bit concerned that it was going to be a long night. Thankfully, once our server made her first interaction, she far made up for the slow start. Not only was she over the top friendly, personable and peppy (in a non-annoying way), but she was on the ball on her recommendations, too! It’s rare that a server (or even a sommelier) is able to respond to our requests with such precision but when we asked for a buttery Chard – she gave us the crème de la crème of buttery goodness. Wow.

-Other aspects of service were flawless, as well. Cocktails came at record speed after ordering, water glasses were always refilled, plates and cutlery were cleared and replenished, and the meal moved at a very comfortable but efficient pace – in and out in just under 2 hours.

 

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Drink:

 

-Jové boasts an impressive list of almost 20 sophisticated cocktails ($13-22), divided into Bubbly (Prosecco or Champagne based), Italian Twists (using Italian booze in international drinks) and Classics (like Dark and Stormy, Martini or Aviation).

-Wine drinkers have about 25 almost exclusively Italian options by the glass ($11-25) or by bottle ($44-98), while those in the mood for a brew can opt for one of their 6 or so bottles ($8-9)

 

Champagne Cocktail ($22)
Louis Roederer Champagne, Sugar Cube, Angostura Bitters

 

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Sibling Rivalry ($16)
Enza Prosecco, Chambord, St. Germaine Elderflower, Domaine de Canton Ginger

 

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Dark and Stormy ($14)
Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, Ginger Beer, Lime

 

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Iconoclast Chardonnay, Russian River Valley USA ($16)

 

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Every drink was absolute perfection. Both of the sparkling cocktails were well balanced- the champagne having a solid level of bitter from the angostura to temper the sweetness from the slowly dissolving sugar cube, while the Prosecco had a lovely floral aroma and gentle kick from the ginger. The Dark and Stormy was one of the best I’ve ever had- a perfect combination of heat, sweet, bitter and sour. And as previously mentioned, that Chardonnay was exactly what my partner wanted. Buttery and toasty, almost like drinking movie theatre popcorn (except without the inevitable regret). Even if you don't have time for a full meal, I would definitely recommend a night of drinks at Jové.

 

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Food:

 

-The Jové kitchen is lead by Italy-born Mauro Zanusso (previously of an Italian establishment in Four Seasons Egypt) working alongside Palm Beach Four Seasons Executive Chef Darryl Moiles.

-With everything made in house, the menu features classic Mediterranean flavours blended nicely with contemporary techniques and enough Palm Beach tradition to keep the old school folk happy.

-The menu is broken into Bread, Cheese, Salami, Shellfish, Pizzas, Salads, Pastas, Fish, Meat and Dessert. There is also a Chicchetti menu (Italian tapas like bites) for those looking more to graze than fully commit.

 

Florida Keys Stone Crab Claws ($25 for ½ lb)
Mustard Sauce

 

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Meaty, fresh, sweet and delicious with the little ramekin of creamy and tangy sauce.

 

Burrata Mozzarella ($9)
Strawberries, Parsley, Manacardi Balsamic

 

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Absolute heaven. The burrata was blessedly creamy, soaking into the toasty warm bread and cuddling up to the sweet and refreshing macerated berries. Such a simple dish but seriously, I want to return just to eat this.

 

Fried Peppers ($7)
Shishito, Lemon, Parmesan

 

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Very tasty, but probably my least favourite dish of the night. The batter was a little heavy for the delicate peppers and I thought it could have used a little more sweetness somewhere (maybe a glaze or drizzle) to balance out the bitter quality of the peppers.

 

Pumpkin Raviolo ($12)
Short Rib, Amaretto, Garlic Pesto, Toasted Pistachio, Fried Onions

 

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A beautifully plated dish, but make sure you’ve got more food coming if you opt for this as obviously it’s pretty small. The perfectly cooked raviolo was packed with aromatic sweet pumpkin which was nicely balanced by the rich savoury short ribs and beefy broth. I also loved the juxtaposition of textures on the plates with the pillowy stuffed pasta, the tender meat, the crunchy nuts and the crispy fried onions. All I can complain about is that I wish I had a more.

 

Prosciutto Stone Fired Pizzette ($20)
Tomato Onion Jam, Arugula, Parmesan

 

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A cracker thin pizza with a fabulous balance of sweetness from the jam and saltiness from the prosciutto and parmesan. I loved the overall flavour of the pie and it’s ethereally light texture, but I did find the edges a bit too charred to eat. Regardless, I would for sure order this again.

 

Tiramisu ($14)
Mascarpone, Espresso, Lady Fingers

 

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A tasty not-too-sweet end to the meal.  It was a bit more dense than most tiramisus, so in that sense I may have preferred a greater ratio of mascarpone to lady fingers but still, it was a delicious dessert. I particularly liked the white chocolate shell that lent a nice textural contrast and touch of sweetness to balance out the heavy coffee flavour.

 

Crème Bruciata ($14)
Vanilla Custard and Burnt Caramel

 

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At the absolute opposite end of the sugar spectrum, this dessert will send you into a sugar high like you’ve never had before.  Essentially, this was a deconstructed crème brulee. The fish bowl encased a rich, slightly bitter but cloyingly sweet syrup assumedly made from deeply caramelized sugar. Within it were little delicate orbs of set custard that when rescued with a spoon alongside some of the syrup provided the same taste sensation of a crème brulee. I was tempted to drink the residual syrup, but lord knows that wouldn’t have ended so well.

 

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Closing Remarks:

 

-For 3 apps, 2 mains, 2 desserts, 3 cocktails, 2 glasses of wine and 2 cappuccinos, the bill came to $240 including tax and tip. By Palm Beach standards, that’s a steal, and by most standards, it was a solid meal. The service was flawless, the ambiance was sophisticated yet comfortable, the cocktails and wines were inventive and well prepared, and the food was familiar yet fun.

-I would definitely want to return to Jové in future visits down south- particularly if our phenomenal server is still around and they keep that Crème Bruciata on offer.

Abbey

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